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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.